Weaving from home: craft in the time of corona

Every society has its craft traditions – historic art forms and distinctive methods of making that pass down the generations, heirloom knowledge that provides a livelihood to individuals, families and communities. They are shaped by the materials naturally available in the region; by cultural crossovers of trade, travel and conflict, and by the prevailing social, religious and economic structures – in this sense, a craft object becomes an expression of regional identity.

In the UAE, the craft of Talli has been integral to Emirati domestic culture since time immemorial. A form of embroidery that originated with the Bedouins as a means of adorning collars, cuffs and hems, Talli is traditionally exclusive to female artisans, who deftly combine coloured threads to create highly elaborate zig-zag patterns.  It is very much a craft of the home.

However, where many traditional hand crafts are falling out of use in the face of mass-production and dwindling demand, Talli still thrives in the UAE – thanks in no small part to the efforts of Irthi’s Bidwa Centre in Dibba Al Hisn. Here, more than 80 expert craftswoman and trainees are employed in the practice and teaching of Talli and other traditional Emirati crafts, helping preserve these ancient techniques and adapting them to engage modern international markets in fashion and design. As well as hand-weaving talli threads in the same ways that generations of women have done for centuries, the Bidwa artisans conduct workshops with emerging  fashion and product designers, collaborate with international fashion houses, and engage in crossover programmes with other disciplines (such as the one which recently resulted in the launch of a collection of craft objects on the global collectible-craft platform Adorno – including jewellery, homewares and accessories featuring Talli designs). Earlier this month, NOWNESS showcased a beautiful video of some of Bidwa’s Talli weavers discussing their craft and culture, explaining how they were evolving Talli by incorporating new materials such as pearls. 

Like almost every craft institution, the Bidwa Center has been affected by COVID-19 and the social and economic sacrifices it has demanded of us. Workshops are no longer possible, and the women can no longer share studio space, or enjoy the pleasures of making and singing together expressed in the NOWNESS video. However, unlike many craftspeople around the world whose work – and therefore income – has ground to a halt, the Bidwa artisans have the luxury of knowing their livelihood is secure no matter what.

When the pandemic first took hold in the UAE, the Council made the swift decision to close the Bidwa Centre to limit the risk of transmission, had all tools and craft equipment sanitised, and sent the artisans home with everything they needed to continue weaving. Irthi has also ensured that every artisan is being paid in full throughout the crisis, so the livelihood of the Bidwa craftswomen and trainees is secure, no matter what happens in the months ahead. It’s a remarkable counterpoint to the instability now being faced by many individual artisans and craftspeople in other countries – including our own.

Irthi’s response has been a model of calm, proportion and efficiency, and has ensured that the Talli weavers’ work can continue virtually unaffected at a time when many other businesses and industries are still struggling to adapt, or shutting down altogether. There is also a certain poetic circularity to Irthi’s approach: crafts such as Talli originated in Emirati homes centuries ago; now they have returned there once more.